NEWS
Hot Off The Diamond Press
Kering reported fourth-quarter revenue at its “Other Houses” division rose 3% year on year, supported by strong growth across its jewelry maisons. Boucheron delivered double-digit gains, while Pomellato remained steady, DoDo accelerated and Qeelin showed solid momentum, Kering said. Full-year revenue in the division declined 10% to EUR 2.9 billion in 2025, with watches and jewelry accounting for 33% of sales.
Mountain Province Diamonds said it will not replace CEO Mark Wall, who stepped down last year, and has paused the Tuzo pipe expansion at the Gahcho Kué mine as weak diamond demand has deepened its financial strain. The company owes joint venture partner De Beers Canada about CAD 49.2 million ($36.3 million) and has received three in-kind election notices, allowing De Beers to take its share in diamonds rather than cash. Chairman Jonathan Comerford has been appointed acting president and CEO.
Sales across all product categories among US independent jewelers rose 16% year on year in January, according to Edge Retail Academy, despite a 4% decline in unit sales as the average retail ticket jumped 20%. Diamond sales value increased 2%, with a 4% rise in average price offsetting a 2% drop in volume. Separately, Tenoris reported a 9% increase in overall jewelry sales, as unit volumes fell 7% but average prices climbed 17.4%, while diamond sales edged up 1.2% on a 10.4% rise in average price.
Anglo American is reviewing the carrying value of De Beers ahead of its full-year results on February 20, citing continued weakness in the diamond market. The group said it is assessing whether current conditions warrant an impairment, which could be recognized with the earnings release. It would be Anglo’s third write-down of De Beers in three years, as it moves ahead with plans to sell its 85% stake in the diamond company.
De Beers reported rough sales rose 10% to $2.98 billion in 2025, supported by a 17% increase in sales volume to 20.9 million carats despite a 7% drop in the average price to $142 per carat. The company’s average price index, which tracks like-for-like valuations, declined 12% to $94. Production fell 12% to 21.7 million carats, and De Beers cut its 2026 guidance, forecasting output of 21 to 26 million carats.
Polished diamond prices continue to decline in January, albeit at a slower pace, Rapaport Group said. The group’s RAPI index for 1-carat diamonds declined 1.3% in January, while the index for 0.30-carat and 0.50-carat fell by a similar margin.
Gem Diamonds reported that rough sales from its Letšeng mine in Lesotho fell 36% to $97.7 million in 2025, as sales volume dropped 20% to 88,381 carats and the average price declined by the same margin to $1,105 per carat. Production slid 14% to 90,354 carats over the year.
Watches of Switzerland reported trading beat expectations in the third quarter ending December 31, driven by sustained growth in the US across categories, brands and price points, including an excellent sales performance at its Roberto Coin subsidiary. UK sales were steady and in line with prior periods. The group raised its full-year forecast to revenue growth of 9% to 11%, up from a previous range of 6% to 10%, following its acquisition of Deutsch & Deutsch.
Pandora will introduce platinum-plated jewelry, diversifying its metal mix and reducing reliance on sterling silver amid volatile commodity prices. The range uses the company’s Evershine alloy core to deliver hypoallergenic, water- and tarnish-resistant pieces positioned for everyday wear. A pilot launch begins in Northern Europe in early 2026, ahead of a global rollout later in the year.
Hong Kong’s sales of jewelry, watches and clocks, and valuable gifts rose 14.3% year on year in December, according to the Census and Statistics Department. The category recorded growth of 1.9% for the full year.
The United States and India have reached a trade deal that will eliminate US import tariffs on diamonds sourced from India. Under the broader agreement, the US will cut tariffs on Indian goods to 18% from 25%, remove the additional 25% penalty imposed in September, and fully scrap duties on select categories, including gems and diamonds, The White House said.
Borsheims unveiled plans for a major renovation of its flagship store. The overhaul will transform more than 20,000 square feet into an open-concept luxury space with expanded private consultation areas, a revamped Luxury Salon and a redesigned gold-accented entrance. The project will begin after the 2026 Berkshire Hathaway Annual Shareholders Meeting in May, with the store remaining open in phased construction.
Burgundy Diamond Mines said diamond sales from its Ekati mine in Canada fell 16% year on year to 680,000 carats in the fourth quarter, while production declined 11% to 540,000 carats. Operations at the Misery Underground continued despite challenges linked to the company’s financial pressures, Burgundy added.
Diamond Trading Company Botswana (DTCB) has appointed Serty Leburu as managing director, making her the first woman to hold the role. Leburu joins from Standard Chartered Bank, where she served as deputy CEO, and previously held senior positions at Debswana and the Botswana Diamond Valuing Company. She succeeds Sedireng Serumola, who left in December to become executive director of business advisory firm Stone Temple Holdings.
International Gemological Institute (IGI) has acquired American Gemological Laboratories (AGL), strengthening its capabilities in colored gemstone analysis and provenance reporting. The deal will allow AGL to expand its certification services beyond the US, while diversifying IGI’s revenue base, IGI said.
Bain & Co said jewelry saw a marked improvement in China in 2025, led by fine jewelry. Rising prices for rare metals also reinforced the asset value that jewelry represents, the research firm noted in its recent report on the 2025 Chinese Personal Luxury Goods Market
Birks Group reported a 12% year-on-year increase in sales during the November–December holiday period, supported by its acquisition of European Boutique and stronger demand for branded timepieces and Birks jewelry. Comparable store sales rose 2.5%.
The National Retail Federation said it expects record Valentine’s Day spending of $29.1 billion, with shoppers budgeting an average $199.78 for gifts, up from $188.81 last year. Jewelry ranks behind candy, greeting cards, flowers and evenings out by participation, with 25% of shoppers planning a jewelry purchase. Despite that, jewelry is expected to account for the highest total spend at about $7 billion.
The European Union has abolished import duties on Indian gem and jewelry products under a new trade deal, removing tariffs of 2% to 4% on precious jewelry. The move could double bilateral jewelry trade to $10 billion within three years, according to the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC).
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